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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.