Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
